Setting Up Your New Aquarium

To provide a healthy, happy atmosphere for your fish, Petland recommends the following necessary equipment and accessories for your new aquarium.

Starting Out Right!

Before you start setting anything up, take an inventory of your supplies. Rinse all your equipment (including the aquarium) in clear tap water to remove any contaminants.
Place the aquarium on an appropriate aquarium stand, away from direct sunlight, as well as heating and cooling vents. Be sure the tank is sitting level. Fill the aquarium with 4 cm (1 ½ in) of water. Rinse the substrate (gravel/sand) thoroughly. The gravel should be sloped higher in the back to allow for better decoration anchorage.
Fill the tank halfway with water, pouring it into a container inside the aquarium to avoid disturbing the gravel and causing cloudiness. Then add plants and decorations, arranging them in a horseshoe shape to create hiding spots. Keep the center mostly open so fish have space to swim freely. This also helps them stay more visible.
Finish filling the tank with water and then remove the temporary container. Place the aquarium heater in the tank but do not turn it on at this time. Allow the heater glass to acclimate to the water temperature in the aquarium for one hour before plugging it in. You can camouflage the heater behind the decorations. Put the thermometer in a place opposite of the heater.
Equip the aquarium with a filter system. If using an internal filter, place it in the tank toward the back and hide the filter using plants or driftwood. If you are using an external filter, such as a hang-on-back filter or canister filter, place it at the back of the tank or underneath. Hide the intake tube, which draws water from the tank to the filter, with decorations, but still allow for circulation. Add water conditioner to the aquarium, and turn on the filtration system. Be sure to prime any pumps with water prior to starting.
If adding live plants, set up the CO₂ system. Use a water test kit to test the carbonate hardness and pH levels to adjust CO₂ output. Once ready, plant the plants. See our Keeping Live Aquatic Plants Tip Sheet for more information. If live plants are not added at this time, skip this step.
Now place the aquarium canopy in position and make any adjustments to accommodate the heater, filter, and cords. Plug the canopy light into an automatic light timer and set the timer for 10 to 12 hours a day.
Plug in the aquarium heater and make any final adjustments to the heater in order to stabilize a temperature between 24°–25°C (76°–78°F), depending on the fish you have chosen. Make adjustments every half hour until the desired temperature is achieved.
Wait one to two days before adding fish to ensure the correct water temperature and everything is running properly. Adding fish too soon after the initial set up can be unsafe for them. Constantly fluctuating temperatures or too much suspended debris dangerously increases their stress level.

Testing the Water

All new aquarium setups need to develop beneficial bacteria to create a biological cycle in the aquarium. This filter conditioning process is referred to as “New Tank Syndrome.” This takes approximately five to seven weeks to develop, depending on the specifics of each aquarium (see our New Tank Syndrome Tip Sheet). We recommend using a bacteria supplement to assist in developing a biological cycle in the aquarium.

Over the next several weeks, we recommend weekly water quality testing. When the water tests of ammonia and nitrite reach zero, more fish species can be added. For your convenience, we recommend having a water test kit which will allow you to accurately test your aquarium water at home. We also offer free water testing for hobbyists who are Club Pet members.

Water Changes

Partial water changes are the single most important procedure you will perform on your aquarium. For the first two months, remove 20 – 25% of the water every week using a gravel cleaning siphon. Replace it with freshwater that has been treated with a water conditioner. As the aquarium matures (two – three months), the period between water changes can be increased to every three to four weeks. Periodic water testing will help to determine a water change schedule that is right for your aquarium. Adding water (due to evaporation) weekly will reduce fluctuations in water chemistry (see our New Tank Syndrome Tip Sheet).

How to Feed Your Fish

Improper feeding is the leading cause of fish health problems. Uneaten food spoils quickly, and if consumed, can make fish sick or reduce their appetite. As it decays in the aquarium, it also raises ammonia to dangerous levels.

Fish often get excited at feeding time and may miss food before it sinks or is pulled into the filter. To ensure even shy fish get a chance to eat, follow these steps:

Offer a very small amount of food.
Once the food is consumed, offer a small amount a second time.
Observe the fish to determine if repeating is necessary up to three or four times.

You can offer foods to your fish two to three times a day.

See our Do Your Fish Look Hungry? Tip Sheet for more information.

Oh Yes, The Fish!

In the beginning, only a small number of fish can be added to the tank. Our pet counsellors will help guide you in selecting the appropriate first fish for your aquarium. As a guideline, we recommend one 3 cm (1") length of fish to 38 L (10 US gal.) of tank water to safely start your new aquarium.

Introducing New Fish into Your Aquarium

Travelling from one aquarium to another can be very stressful for fish. Extreme temperature changes (hot or cold) can adversely affect your fish’s health. Try to avoid exposing your new fish to these hot or cold conditions when taking them home.

During this period fish may be unable to produce or repair their slime coat. A fish’s slime coat is their natural protection against injury to skin, scales and parasitic infestations such as Ich (which can be present in established aquariums). To help minimize the stress on your fish and protect its slime coat, adhere to the following steps:

Wrap up your fish bag in paper or keep them inside your warm jacket. Go directly home to lessen the transport time.
When you arrive at home, float the sealed bag of fish in your aquarium for 10 – 15 minutes to allow the water temperature in the fish bag to adjust to the aquarium’s temperature.
While you are waiting, add new decorations or rearrange the decorations in your aquarium to create new hiding places for all your fish.
Use an aquarium fish net to transfer only the fish from the fish bag into your aquarium. Discard the water and the bag. Then add a bacterial supplement to boost the biological filtration in your aquarium, which will benefit all your fish.
To help reduce health problems, we recommend adding a full dose of water conditioner as a slime coat additive, and aquarium salt (if permitted) as an electrolyte booster.

Monitor your new arrivals, along with your other fish, for the first 48 hours. Look for signs of stress, such as loss of colour, clamped or frayed fins, unusual grey patches or white spots and a lack of appetite. Contact your local Petland store immediately if you have any concerns.

Cleanliness and Safety

All pets must be kept in a clean environment to avoid the spread of dirt and contaminants to yourself and others. Always keep your pet’s home clean, and wash your hands before and after handling your pet or cleaning his home.

CHECKLIST FOR YOUR AQUARIUM

Aquarium
Aquarium stand
Aquarium canopy
Light fixture and bulb
Heater and thermometer
Substrate (gravel or sand)
Plants (live or artificial plants)
Decorations (i.e. driftwood, rocks or artificial resin-based decorations. At least one hiding spot per fish)
A variety of fish food
Aquarium filter (submersible, hang-on-back, or canister)
Gravel cleaning siphon
Water conditioner
Bacteria supplement
(Optional) Aquarium salt
Algae scraper
Fish net
Water test kit

Please ask your pet counsellor what other items pertain to your particular fish’s needs.

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