Caring for Your Snake
Snakes are found on every continent of the world except Antarctica. They have a Jacobson’s organ that allows them to collect scent molecules on their tongue and bring it to their organ when the tongue retracts. Snakes do this to sense prey.
Why Choose a Snake?
Snakes are interesting and easy to care for. There are a large variety of species suitable to the home environment. They are hypoallergenic, relatively low maintenance, have lower social needs than other pets, have generally quiet dispositions, and have the potential to be a beautiful feature in the home. Many can be quite personable, making them lovable companions.
Snakes do not require social interaction. In fact, most snakes are quiet and reclusive, spending much of their time in their favourite retreats conserving energy between feedings. Most snakes can be handled for short periods at a time, but over-handling can cause stress. There are times when they will prefer to be left alone, including shedding periods and feeding times.
Shedding
A snake’s skin does not grow as they do. Instead, a new layer of skin develops under the old one as their scales begin to look stretched and dull and their eyes may develop a milky blue opaque quality. Young snakes shed more frequently (1- 2 times/month) than an adult (few times a year).
Sometimes when a snake is coming into a shed, they are less inclined to eat. Avoid handling during this uncomfortable time, and consider increasing the humidity and providing rough surfaces to aid in shedding.
Feeding Strategies
Sometimes snakes quit eating for a period of time. This is more of a concern for young snakes, and can be more common in certain species like ball pythons. To encourage feeding, warm the food item so that it is soft to the touch by thawing it in a bag within a bowl of warm water. Offer the item in the late evening hours or in a dark room. Gently wiggling it with feeder tongs can get the snake more excited. Increase the temperature to trigger their metabolism. If the need arises, ask a Petland pet counsellor for more tips to encourage feeding.
After feeding, avoid handling your snake for 48-72 hours to allow for digestion.
To provide a happy, healthy atmosphere for your pet, Petland recommends the following necessary accessories. We have listed them as your new pet's 4 Basic Needs: Environmental, Behavioural, Nutritional, and Maintenance. When these needs are met, along with a loving environment provided by you, your snake can live a long and happy life.
ENVIRONMENTAL
Enclosure – When choosing an enclosure, make sure you accommodate your snake's natural behaviours. Arboreal (tree-dwelling) snakes prefer a tall environment with strong branches to climb. Terrestrial (ground-dwelling) snakes require more ground space to crawl around in. An aquarium with a secure screen lid works well to maintain appropriate humidity and temperature requirements. Snakes are curious by nature, and so an insecure lid is a recipe for trouble!
Temperature – A snake is an ectotherm, which means they depend on the temperature in their environment to regulate their body temperature. The habitat must be laid out as a temperature gradient to avoid extremes. Refer to your snake’s Care Sheet for exact temperature requirements in the cool and warm ends of the enclosure.
A heat bulb is the best choice to provide localized heat for the basking area and as a light source. The wattage of the bulb will depend on your enclosure. Situate the light fixture so that it is far enough away from the basking area that your snake does not get burned, but close enough to maintain a basking temperature.
An under-the-tank heater or heat mat is useful to ensure the substrate is warm and dry at all times, though it should be used as a secondary heat source and not the primary source of heat. A thermostat will be essential for burrowing snakes to prevent burns if they get too close.
Thermometer – The use of a thermometer is the only way to know if the enclosure and basking sites are maintained at the correct temperature. Place one thermometer by the warm end and one at the cooler, shaded end of the enclosure to monitor the temperature gradient which allows the snake to regulate their body temperature.
Thermostat/Dimmer – A thermostat is used to regulate the temperature of heat mats or light fixtures that do not have the ability to reduce the heat output. This safety feature is important to prevent burns or overheating, particularly if it is possible for the snake to come in close contact with the heat mat, or if the light fixture is not equipped with a dimmer.
Lighting – Snakes can be diurnal (active during the day) or nocturnal (active at night), though they are most commonly active during dawn and dusk (crepuscular). That means they still receive some levels of UV lighting, which allows them to synthesize vitamin D3 and absorb calcium. It is also valuable for photoperiod regulating and the absorption of UVA to prevent behavioural problems. Always provide a source of shade so they can retreat from the brightness when they need to. A Day/Night Timer can automate turning lights on and off, providing a consistent photoperiod and saving you time and effort. For more information ask a pet counsellor for a copy of the Ultraviolet Lighting for Birds and Reptiles Tip Sheet.
Relative Humidity – For snakes that require more humidity, the use of foggers, automatic misters, and misting bottles can recreate their natural environment. Be sure not to mist or spray the snake directly, but rather their environment instead. Incorporating moss into your substrate or hides aids in maintaining humidity. A humidity gauge allows you to monitor relative humidity levels. The enclosure should always have good ventilation. Refer to your snake’s Care Sheet for exact humidity requirements. If your snake is preparing to shed (the skin looks dull, and the eyes appear milky), keep them at the higher end of the range.
BEHAVIOURAL
Decorations/Plants – A snake’s enclosure should resemble a landscape that mimics the biome they originate from. This may include rocks, driftwood, hollowed cork bark, and live or artificial plants for refuge, shade, or climbing. Consider surfaces that are rough enough to help a snake shed their skin. See the Keeping a Vivarium Tip Sheet for more information about live plants.
Hiding Places – No matter the size or species, every snake needs some sort of hiding place to feel secure in their enclosure. Although decorations and plants may serve as a refuge for your snake, a designated hiding hut may be required, depending on the size of your snake. Ensure both the warm and the cool side of the tank have their own hiding places to allow the snake to regulate their temperature effectively.
NUTRITIONAL
Food Sources – A natural diet for most snakes consists of small rodents and birds that they have captured. Captive-bred snakes will readily accept freshly thawed frozen feeder rodents, which are both safer and more convenient. Frozen mice and rats must be completely thawed out prior to being fed to a snake, and be warm to the touch. Thawing is typically achieved by placing the feeder item in a bag that is then submersed in a larger container of warm water until the desired temperature is achieved. Never microwave feeder items.
Feeding Tongs – Using feeding tongs to wiggle a food item around can entice a snake to eat it. Feeding tongs also prevent direct contact with frozen feeder rodents, which can be a source of human Salmonella infections.
Watering – Snakes are very particular about the water they like to drink. Fresh water must be offered at all times in a water dish large enough for the snake to fully submerge themselves in, especially because they will often soak in water to loosen old skin prior to shedding. For larger snakes, cat litter pans work well.
De-chlorinator – A de-chlorinator will remove the chlorine and chloramine from tap water, making it safe for the reptile to drink or soak in.
MAINTENANCE
Substrate – Substrate helps maintain the cleanliness of the tank, provides enrichment opportunities (depending on the snake), and can help maintain higher humidity levels. Choose a substrate that mimics your snake’s biome, such as coconut husk, forest bark, soil blends, moss, or sand blends. Refer to your snake’s Care Sheet for exact substrate requirements.
Litter Scoop – A litter scoop will make it easier to remove droppings in the enclosure. Snakes defecate once or twice a week, so spot clean as needed to keep their home clean and free from fungus, mould or parasites.
Cage Cleaner – Use a reptile-safe cleaner to break down stains and odours. Clean the cage weekly with the cleaner or hot water and mild soap, then rinse and dry thoroughly. Avoid bleach and other household cleaners, as they can irritate your pet’s respiratory system or cause even worse problems.
Secure Temporary Container – Although snakes spend most of their time in their enclosure, you’ll sometimes need a secure temporary space. A plastic terrarium or similar container keeps them safe during cleaning, transport, or vet visits.
Safe Handling
Contact with reptiles, their environments, or frozen feeder rodents can be a source of human Salmonella infections. After handling a reptile, its environment, or its food, it is recommended that you wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water. Clean and disinfect any surface where frozen rodents are prepared, thawed, and stored.
Cleanliness and Safety
All pets can potentially carry diseases that may be contagious to people. Hygiene procedures, such as washing your hands before and after handling your pet or its habitat, are necessary. Children should be assisted with hand washing and always have adult supervision when interacting with pets.
CHECKLIST
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Enclosure
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Enclosure components & lights
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Heat bulb
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Under-the-tank heater or heat mat
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Thermometer and thermostat
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UV bulb (Optional for nocturnal)
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Day/night timer
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Mister and/or fogger and humidity gauge
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Plants
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Decorations with rough surfaces (i.e. rocks, driftwood)
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Hiding place
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Food sources
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Feeding tongs
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Water dish
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Dechlorinator
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Substrate
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Litter scoop
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Cage cleaner
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Temporary container