Caring For Your Invertebrate
Invertebrates are classified as animals that do not have a spine. Approximately 95% of all animals are invertebrates. At Petland, tarantulas, scorpions, and crabs are all invertebrates that are regularly available.
Why Choose an Invertebrate?
Invertebrates have fascinated people all over the world. Despite their reputation in movies, the majority of species are quite docile and are easy to keep and transport. All tarantulas and scorpions are venomous, but the toxicity of the venom can be equated to a bee sting for most species. Still, caution should be maintained when handling them in case of an allergic reaction to the venom. Watching invertebrates move and climb can be engrossing and fascinating. Some species of tarantulas can construct the most intricate webs.
Invertebrates are hypoallergenic, relatively low maintenance, have lower social needs than other pets, have generally quiet dispositions, generally require little space, and have the potential to be a beautiful feature in the home.
Moulting
The invertebrates that Petland carries are all arthropods, which means they have exoskeletons to provide protection and support, but do not allow for growth. Moulting is the process by which your invertebrate sheds their outgrown skin, replaces missing or damaged appendages, and replenishes hair. Adults will moult less frequently than juveniles, as their growth slows down with age.
Symptoms of moulting include decreased activity, dull colouration, a development of a bald spot on their abdomen (in the case of tarantulas), increased use of webbing (in the case of tarantulas), or hunger strikes.
If you should notice your tarantula on their back, don’t fret. They are not dead, as this is their normal behaviour and position to moult. The moulting process may take several hours to complete.
A hermit crab’s moulting process involves burrowing deep beneath the substrate. The process can take 4-8 weeks to complete. During moulting, do not disturb the substrate or search for them, as this stress can be fatal during a vulnerable time.
Some invertebrates (ie. hermit crabs) consume their shed exoskeleton for added nutrients and it should not be removed from the enclosure.
During a moult, ensure proper humidity levels to help the moult go smoothly, and all feeder insects should be removed from the enclosure as they can stress out the animal or even attack when the animal is most vulnerable. Feeder insects should not be fed again until 2 weeks after the completion of the moult when the exoskeleton hardens.
To provide a happy, healthy atmosphere for your new pet, Petland recommends the following necessary accessories. We have listed them as your new pet’s 4 Basic Needs: Environmental, Behavioural, Nutritional and Maintenance. If these needs are met and a loving environment is provided by you, your invertebrate can live a long and healthy life.
ENVIRONMENTAL
Enclosure – Invertebrates can be categorized as arboreal or terrestrial, and knowing which category they fall under will dictate the enclosure they will need. Arboreal invertebrates prefer enclosures that are tall rather than long. Terrestrial invertebrates prefer longer enclosures. An aquarium with a secure screen lid works well to maintain appropriate humidity and temperature requirements.
Temperature – An invertebrate is an ectotherm, which means they depend on the temperature in their environment to regulate their body temperature. The habitat must be laid out as a temperature gradient to avoid extremes. Refer to your invertebrate’s Care Sheet for exact temperature requirements in the cool and warm ends of the enclosure.
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An under-the-tank heater or heat mat is useful to ensure the substrate is warm and dry at all times. Because many species of invertebrate are sensitive to radiant heat, this is typically the primary source of heat.
Thermometer – The use of a thermometer is the only way to know if the enclosure is being maintained at the correct temperature. Place one thermometer by the warm end and one at the cooler, shaded end of the enclosure to monitor the temperature gradient which allows the invertebrate to regulate their body temperature.
Thermostat – A thermostat is used to regulate the temperature of heat mats that do not have the ability to reduce the heat output. This safety feature is important to prevent burns or overheating, particularly if it is possible for the invertebrate to come in close contact with the heat mat.
Lighting – Invertebrates are most commonly nocturnal (active at night) or crepuscular (active during dawn and dusk). That means that most do not need UV lighting for synthesizing vitamin D3 and to absorb calcium. However, it can be valuable for photoperiod regulating and the absorption of UVA to prevent behavioural problems. Always provide a source of shade so they can retreat from the brightness when they need to. A Day/Night Timer can automate turning lights on and off, providing a consistent photoperiod and saving you time and effort. For more information ask a pet counsellor for a copy of the Ultraviolet Lighting for Birds and Reptiles Tip Sheet.
Relative Humidity – Certain species of invertebrates like moderate to high humidity, while others like low humidity. A humidity gauge is helpful in monitoring what the relative humidity is at any given time. For invertebrates who prefer higher humidity, a misting bottle, automatic mister, or fogger will assist in providing a higher humidity. Refer to your invertebrate’s Care Sheet for exact humidity requirements.
BEHAVIOURAL
Decorations/Plants – An invertebrate’s enclosure should mimic the environment that it came from. This may include rocks, driftwood, hollowed cork bark, and live or artificial plants for refuge, shade, or climbing. Live plants may provide benefits, such as aerating the enclosure. See the Keeping a Vivarium Tip Sheet for more information about live plants.
Hiding Places – No matter the size or species, every invertebrate needs some sort of hiding place to feel secure in their enclosure. Although decorations and plants may serve as a refuge for your invertebrate, a designated hiding hut may be required, depending on the size of your invertebrate.
NUTRITIONAL
Food Sources – Most invertebrates are insectivores, so a varied diet of feeder insects is best. If feeder insects are not consumed within a couple of hours, they should be removed from the enclosure to prevent the invertebrate from becoming stressed. Remember that some invertebrates will go on a hunger strike leading up to a moult, and should not be offered feeder insects for 2 weeks following a moult to allow the exoskeleton to harden. Ask a pet counsellor for a copy of the Keeping Feeder Insects Tip Sheet for more information about feeding insectivores. Refer to your invertebrate’s Care Sheet for exact nutrition requirements.
Calcium Supplement – Not many food sources provide sufficient calcium levels, which can be detrimental to their bodies and bodily functions. You can maintain a routine of adding a calcium supplement to the invertebrate’s food source by dusting their feeder insects or salad with calcium. You can also choose to gut-load the feeder insect before it is consumed. Either way, your invertebrate must have calcium supplementation. Ask your pet counsellor how much and how often you should be supplementing your invertebrate’s diet.
Watering – A shallow water dish should be provided daily. Make sure your invertebrate always has a way to get out of the dish by placing a rock or ceramic ornament inside. Some invertebrates, like hermit crabs, require both fresh and salt water. Refer to your invertebrate’s Care Sheet for exact watering requirements.
De-chlorinator – A de-chlorinator will remove the chlorine and chloramine from tap water, making it safe for the reptile to drink or soak in.
MAINTENANCE
Substrate – Substrate helps maintain the cleanliness of the tank, provides enrichment opportunities (depending on the invertebrate), and can help maintain higher humidity levels. Choose a substrate that mimics your invertebrate’s biome, such as coconut husk, forest bark, soil blends, moss, or sand blends. Refer to your invertebrate’s Care Sheet for exact substrate requirements.
Litter Scoop – A litter scoop will make it easier to remove droppings in the enclosure. Spot clean often to keep their home clean and free from fungus, mould or parasites.
Cage Cleaner – Use a reptile-safe cleaner to break down stains and odours. Clean the cage weekly with the cleaner or hot water and mild soap, then rinse and dry thoroughly. Avoid bleach and other household cleaners, as they can irritate your pet’s respiratory system or cause even worse problems.
Secure Temporary Container – Although invertebrates spend most of their time in their enclosure, you’ll sometimes need a secure temporary space. A plastic terrarium or similar container keeps them safe during cleaning, transport, or vet visits.
Safe Handling
Contact with reptiles, their environments, or frozen feeder rodents can be a source of human Salmonella infections. After handling a reptile, its environment, or its food, it is recommended that you wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water. Clean and disinfect any surface where frozen rodents are prepared, thawed, and stored.
Cleanliness and Safety
All pets can potentially carry diseases that may be contagious to people. Young children, infants, pregnant women, people with compromised immune systems, and the elderly are at greater risk of infections and should use caution when in contact with pets or their environments. Regular cleaning of your pet's environment with a pet safe cleaner may help avoid the spread of contaminants.
Hygiene procedures, such as washing your hands before and after handling your pet and/or after having any contact with their habitat, is a necessary routine. Children should be assisted with hand washing and always have adult supervision when interacting with pets.
CHECKLIST
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Enclosure
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Under-the-tank heater or heat mat
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Thermometer and thermostat
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UV bulb (Optional for nocturnal)
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Day/night timer
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Mister and/or fogger and humidity gauge
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Plants (live or artificial)
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Decorations (i.e. rocks, driftwood)
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Hiding place
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Food sources
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Calcium supplement
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Water dish
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De-chlorinator
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Substrate
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Litter scoop
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Cage cleaner
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Temporary container
Please ask your pet counsellor what other items pertain to your pet’s needs.