Caring For Your Amphibian
The name “amphibian” comes from the Greek word “amphibious” meaning “a double life.” At Petland, frogs, toads, newts, and salamanders (i.e. axolotls) are all amphibians that are regularly available.
Most amphibians undergo the process of metamorphosis where the amphibian transitions from a larval stage to adult. Axolotls are an exception and typically do not transition to an “adult stage” but are able to breed while still in the fully aquatic stage.
Why Choose an Amphibian?
Most amphibians are excellent beginner pets who require minimal space, are hypoallergenic, low maintenance, have low social needs, have generally quiet dispositions, and have the potential to be a beautiful feature in the home. They make a great choice for someone who wants a quiet, unusual, and visually interesting pet. Their hunting skills are particularly interesting to observe!
Skin & Handling
Amphibians use their skin as a supplemental breathing organ. The skin on an amphibian must stay wet for them to absorb oxygen. They secrete mucus to keep their skin moist.
It is important to limit handling because an amphibian’s skin is very sensitive and thin, which makes it prone to tearing. The natural oils and salts from human hands can also be damaging. If handling is necessary, it is recommended to either have clean wet hands or wear wet surgical gloves. Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling.
To provide a happy, healthy atmosphere for your new pet, Petland recommends the following necessary accessories. We have listed them as your new pet’s 4 Basic Needs: Environmental, Behavioural, Nutritional and Maintenance. If these needs are met and a loving environment is provided by you, your amphibian can live a long and healthy life.
ENVIRONMENTAL
Enclosure – Amphibians can be categorized as arboreal or terrestrial, and knowing which category they fall under will dictate the enclosure they will need. Arboreal amphibians prefer enclosures that are tall rather than long. Terrestrial amphibians prefer longer enclosures. An aquarium with a secure screen lid works well to maintain appropriate humidity and temperature requirements.
Temperature – An amphibian is an ectotherm, which means they depend on the temperature in their environment to regulate their body temperature. The habitat must be laid out as a temperature gradient to avoid extremes. Refer to your amphibian’s Care Sheet for exact temperature requirements in the cool and warm ends of the enclosure.
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A heat bulb is a popular choice to provide localized heat for the basking area and as a light source. The wattage of the bulb will depend on your enclosure. Situate the light fixture so that it is far enough away from the basking area that your amphibian does not get burned, but close enough to maintain a basking temperature.
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An under-the-tank heater or heat mat is useful to ensure the substrate is warm and dry at all times, though it should be used as a secondary heat source and not the primary source of heat.
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An aquarium heater may be necessary for aquatic or semi-aquatic amphibians to maintain appropriate temperatures in the water.
Thermometer – The use of a thermometer is the only way to know if the enclosure and basking sites are maintained at the correct temperature. Place one thermometer by the warm end and one at the cooler, shaded end of the enclosure to monitor the temperature gradient which allows the amphibian to regulate their body temperature.
Thermostat - A thermostat is used to regulate the temperature of heat mats or light fixtures that do not have the ability to reduce the heat output. This safety feature is important to prevent burns or overheating, particularly if it is possible for the amphibian to come in close contact with the heat mat, or if the light fixture is not equipped with a dimmer.
Lighting – Sunlight allows crepuscular (active at dawn and dusk) and diurnal (active during the day) invertebrates to synthesize vitamin D3, which is important in the absorption of calcium. Many invertebrates are nocturnal (active at night) and therefore UV is optional, though still valuable for photoperiod regulating and mild absorption of UVA to prevent behavioural problems. Always provide a source of shade so they can retreat from the brightness when they need to. A Day/Night Timer can automate turning lights on and off, providing a consistent photoperiod and saving you time and effort. For more information ask a pet counsellor for a copy of the Ultraviolet Lighting for Birds and Reptiles Tip Sheet.
Relative Humidity – Amphibians benefit from having a misting bottle and a humidity gauge to sustain and monitor relative humidity levels. For amphibians with more intensive humidity needs, an automatic mister or fogger may be beneficial to maintain sufficient levels. The enclosure should always have good ventilation. Refer to your amphibian’s Care Sheet for exact humidity requirements.
BEHAVIOURAL
Decorations/Plants – An amphibian’s enclosure should resemble a landscape that mimics the biome they originate from. This may include rocks, grapevine wood, large aquarium ornaments, driftwood, and live or artificial plants for refuge, shade, or climbing. Although live plants may provide benefits, such as aerating the enclosure, choose the foliage wisely as they may be ingested. See the Keeping a Vivarium Tip Sheet for more information about live plants.
Hiding Places – No matter the size or species, every amphibian needs some sort of hiding place to feel secure in their enclosure. Although decorations and plants may serve as a refuge for your amphibian, a designated hiding hut may be required, depending on the size of your amphibian. Ensure both the warm and the cool side of the tank have their own hiding places to allow the amphibian to regulate their temperature effectively.
NUTRITIONAL
Food Sources – Amphibians are most commonly carnivores, though they can be omnivores or even herbivores in their larval stage. Some amphibians have prepared foods available. Ask a pet counsellor for a copy of the Keeping Feeder Insects Tip Sheet for more information about feeding carnivores and omnivores. Refer to your amphibian’s Care Sheet for exact nutrition requirements.
Calcium Supplement – Calcium supplementation is essential. Many foods don’t provide enough calcium, which can harm your amphibian’s bones and overall health. Regularly add a calcium supplement by dusting feeder insects or salads, or by gut-loading the insects before feeding. Ask your pet counsellor for guidance on the right amount and frequency.
Watering – Water needs vary by species. Some amphibians, like green tree frogs, prefer dripping water from leaves or a dripper, while others, such as Pacman frogs, use a shallow dish. Always ensure there’s an easy way out of the water by placing a rock or ceramic ornament inside. Check your amphibian’s Care Sheet for specific requirements.
De-chlorinator – A de-chlorinator will remove the chlorine and chloramine from tap water, making it safe for the reptile to drink or soak in.
MAINTENANCE
Substrate – Substrate helps keep the tank clean, supports enrichment, and can aid in maintaining humidity. Choose a substrate that mimics your amphibian’s biome, such as coconut husk, forest bark, soil blends, or moss. Check your amphibian’s Care Sheet for exact substrate requirements.
Litter Scoop – A litter scoop will make it easier to remove droppings in the enclosure. Spot clean often to keep their home clean and free from fungus, mould or parasites.
Cage Cleaner – Use a reptile-safe cleaner to break down stains and odours. Clean the cage weekly with the cleaner or hot water and mild soap, then rinse and dry thoroughly. Avoid bleach and other household cleaners, as they can irritate your pet’s respiratory system or cause even worse problems.
Secure Temporary Container – Although amphibians spend most of their time in their enclosure, you’ll sometimes need a secure temporary space. A plastic terrarium or similar container keeps them safe during cleaning, transport, or vet visits.
Filter Systems – In semi-aquatic or aquatic setups, a filter removes waste from your amphibian and uneaten food. Options include internal, hang-on-back, and canister filters, typically powered by a quiet internal motor with replaceable cartridges. They provide mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration. Ask a pet counsellor which type is best for your setup.
Gravel Cleaning Siphon – In semi-aquatic or aquatic enclosures, a gravel cleaner acts like a vacuum, removing hidden debris and toxins from the water and substrate. Cleaning by replacing 20–25% of the water every 3–4 weeks helps reduce waste buildup.
Algae Scraper – In semi-aquatic or aquatic enclosures, algae scrapers remove buildup from tank glass and décor. They come in handheld or magnetic styles for easier cleaning.
Safe Handling
Contact with reptiles, their environments, or frozen feeder rodents can be a source of human Salmonella infections. After handling a reptile, its environment, or its food, it is recommended that you wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water. Clean and disinfect any surface where frozen rodents are prepared, thawed, and stored.
Cleanliness and Safety
All pets can potentially carry diseases that may be contagious to people. Hygiene procedures, such as washing your hands before and after handling your pet or its habitat, are necessary. Children should be assisted with hand washing and always have adult supervision when interacting with pets.
CHECKLIST
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Enclosure
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Heat bulb
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Under-the-tank heater, heat mat, or aquarium heater
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Thermometer and thermostat
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UV bulb (Optional for nocturnal)
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Day/night timer
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Mister and/or fogger and humidity gauge
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Plants (live or artificial)
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Decorations (i.e. rocks, driftwood)
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Hiding place
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Food sources
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Calcium supplement
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Water dish and/or dripper
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De-chlorinator
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Substrate
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Litter scoop
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Cage Cleaner
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Temporary container
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(Semi-Aquatic & Aquatic) Filter system
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(Semi-Aquatic & Aquatic) Gravel cleaning siphon
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(Semi-Aquatic & Aquatic) Algae scraper
Please ask your pet counsellor what other items pertain to your pet’s needs.